Mixed Media (Synthetic & Naturals) Accords
Mixed Media (Synthetic & Naturals) Accords
Formulas are in parts, according to weight, and never measured in drops.
Grossjman Accord
Galaxolide - 25
Hedione HC - 25
Iso E Super - 25
Iralia or Methyl Ionone - 25
TOTAL 100%
The Grossjman Accord can transform a collection of essential oils into a "perfumey" smelling creation. This accord is best represented, most easily identified in Sofias creation “Tresor,” (for Lancome). And for this reason the Grojsman Accord is often referred to as the “Tresor,” accord. The Grossjman Accord/ Tresor Accord give diffusion and radiance, it also;
● Smoothes out rough edges
● blends the your perfume materials together
● Brings transparency
● Brings a certain “cosmetic, makeup, fresh laundry” type scents
found in modern perfumes and makeup.
Mousse De Saxe Base
Mousse de Saxe is powdery, mossy, and dark green base with a sweet leather character. She is excellent in vintage perfume formulas, particularly chypre.
Iralia - 30
Vanillin - 20
Oakmoss Absolute - 20
Geranium Rose - 15
Star Anise - 3
Sandalewood - 10
Iso Butyl Quinlone - 2
TOTAL 100%
Early 20th Century Amber Accord
Amber accords from early 20th century Europe often resemble the below formula. European and American perfumers combined citrus materials with resins, florals, rich woods, resins and musk ketone with small touches of spices and/or animal musks to craft "oriental inspired" bases.
Bergamot - 30
Sweet Orange - 2
Lemon oil - 2
Lavender - 4
Eugenol - 1.5
Benzyl Acetate - 6
Geranium - 2
Sandalwood - 2
Vanillin - 22
Coumarin - 12
Labdanum Absolute - 7.5
Musk ketone - 4
Benzoin - 4
Smelling this accord you would hardly believe it posses so much bergamot, a top note.
*In perfumery, the largest material largest in volume isn't always the most influencial. In fact, as is the case here, large volume material are often used as a "blenders," they fall away in the background, and simply fuse/blend the various other materials together.
Mellis Accord
A spicy patchouli accord in Opium and Youth Dew. A great place to start when crafting ambery rose perfumes.
Patchouli 26
Hedione HC 20
Iso E Super 10
Cinammic Alcohol 10
Galaxolide 8
Coumarin 7
Benzyl Salicylate 6
Sandalwood 5
Rose Otto 3
Labdanum 3
C-18 aldehyde "coconut" 1
Star Anise 1
Nutmeg 1
Ambrienne Accord
A labdanum centric amber accord.
Labdanum oil 30
Vanilla Absolute 13
Benzoin 10
Iso E Super 8
Bergamot 7
Ambroxan 5.5
Coumarin 5
Musk Ketone 5
Iralia 5
Rose Geranium 3.5
Myrrh 3
Cistus 2
Grisalva 2
Cinammon EO 0.9
Ambrinol .01